I am in that often ridiculed group of people who have attended a course to become a barber instead of doing a long in-house apprenticeship. I then took an enormous risk and threw myself in at the deep end and opened my own shop. At this point, many barbers will be holding their head in their hands, I know…I get it! If I knew then what I know now, I may not have done it, but I had been made redundant and this was my chosen path. I have learnt a lot of hard lessons along the way, trust me.

I have only been barbering for 3½ years but during that time, I have endeavoured to attend courses on a fairly regular basis to get my skill set ‘up there’. Training and continuous professional development are important to me, both as a barber and as a business owner. Regardless of the fact that I have come from a completely different background, whatever you do in life, there is always room for improvement. And so it is that I booked myself onto the Savills 3 day ‘Master Barber’ course.

Savills are known for their classic styles. The course overview on their website refers to pomps, ducktails and more detailed technical looks. So, it comes as no surprise that the vast majority of their clientele want a look that makes the most of their long hair on top whilst seemlessly blending them into something (usually much) shorter on the back and sides. Many barbers are inundated with requests for #2 on the back and sides and a trim on top. Savills generally tends to attract a different clientele who require more technical expertise, the sort of cuts which may make many barbers’ hearts sink when requested. This was for me. I wanted to relish the opportunity to do something more creative with confidence, rather than ‘winging’ my way through something which I had not previously attempted.

For anyone who has not been to Savills before, I recommend visiting their website to get a feel for what they are all about as words will not do it justice. However, to be brief, it is a large old school barbershop, mixing elements of art deco chic, rockabilly edge and modern convenience. I had been previously for a haircut and a first hand nosey and what they are all about. This time I was here to train for 3 days and how excited was I?

Much of the course was a bit of a blur in that once you get cutting and get in your zone, the time flies by. The official course times are 11:00 – 17:00. I stayed at the Premier Inn, about a 10 minute walk away and found I had enough time for the gym followed by a leisurely shower, large breakfast, a read of my book, a slow walk to Savills and I still had time to spare. Personally for me, this was a little disappointing as I wanted to cram as much as I could each day. I am sure there is a good reason for it though…perhaps it is not so easy to get models (who are mostly students) out of bed before this time.

On the first day, we were greeted by Pete Illingworth, the shop’s manager and trainer. Pete is a jovial, approachable kind of fella who will happily share his knowledge and experience. Savills only train 4 barbers at a time to ensure everyone gets maximum supervision and the haircuts flow without too much interruption. Once all 4 of us had arrived, Pete (along with Joth Davies, the owner) sat with us and went through introductions and an explanation of what to expect. The format for the next 3 days was a demonstration by Pete in the morning followed by each of us cutting the hair of our models, who have already booked a free academy haircut. We then broke for lunch, trained on two more models each and Pete did a final demonstration at the end of each day.

As you may imagine, the course content is hard to set in stone as each model is different. However, as I found, if you specify that you would like to do a particular type of haircut, Pete will try to match models to trainees as best he could so you feel you are getting maximum value out of the course. You can reasonably expect to be able to fade/blend using Savills’ set method a range of traditional/classic styles and different types of Asian hair. The only notable type of hair which wasn’t covered was afro hair which probably requires a course of it’s own due to the variety of textures and techniques required to cut and style it.
I have already mentioned Savills own method of fading/blending. It is a simple method in which the baseline of the desired shape is first put in, followed by a #2, two finger widths above. This is then blended down, half a guard length at a time. With practice, it does produce a very nice finish. I now find that I alternate between the techniques I previously used (primarily anything over #1 was blended with an Andis clipper comb) and Savills technique. I do find theirs very good but more time consuming but I guess practice will iron that small issue out.
I was very pleased to have done a nice pompadour, a pomp with a part (scum bag boogie?) and executive contour as well as having tried a new technique for texturing the hair of a client from Malaysia\ Great stuff….we have a client from Malaysia who I can’t wait to use this technique on!

My biggest faux pas of the course was racing ahead of the steps. Each stage of each haircut is discussed with Pete from the start, beginning with the consultation. He then agrees the next step with you, and possibly the next few steps. I made the mistake of not waiting once I had completed the first step and went on to make minor mistakes (small enough to recover from). Once I had got into the rhythm of completing a step and waiting for it to be checked before proceeding, the rest went well. This can however cause minor frustration if another student requires Pete’s attention for 5 minutes or so, but that just goes to highlight the importance of keeping the group small. Thankfully, the models were all very understanding when there were gaps in the cutting while we waited for the nod of approval to proceed.

Other benefits of the course were the use of different equipment and products. I have had a very useful introduction to the benefits of YS Park combs, especially the very flexible one with the skinny end which was great for blending out dark spots around the bumps in the head behind the ears. I would also never have imagined how useful an afro comb and LOTS of pomade would be in perfecting a pompadour. The little hint and tips thrown in along the way are invaluable to someone like me who does not have someone more senior/experienced to count on for such advice. There is also a lot of emphasis on  using a horse shoe section (with grips) to ensure a much neater finish.

I think that regardless of how experienced you are, Pete will have something for everyone to take away and apply to their own work. The course is excellent value for money and should be on everyone’s CPD plan.

At Philip Nicholas there is more to things than trying to be 'the posh barbers' as we have heard some people put it. We strive to be different because we believe that gents deserve more.

Let's consider the lovely ladies in our lives. Would they queue behind 6 other ladies for a 'cheap' haircut by someone who is clearly playing a numbers game and trying to squeeze as many haircuts into an hour as possible? Absolutely not. They like to relax in comfortable surroundings, they expect a little bit of hospitality and most likely build a relationship with their hairdresser. They will pay a bit more for the experience because they know that the time and effort put in on the business's part to be able to create this experience comes at a cost to the business. They pay more because they value the time and effort that is put in to make them feel valued and comfortable.

Compare this with the 'average' barbershop, where you are lucky if someone says hello when you walk in, you are not offered a drink and you are expected to sit on a plastic chair (or even stand) while you queue for your 10 minute haircut by someone who will most likely not make any effort to connect with you or even value your custom enough to ask you to come back. That is the way barbering has gone over the past half century. If that business model works for a great many barbers, good luck to them.

However, at Philip Nicholas we feel that there is enough demand for a higher quality experience/service. We know that there are many people whose spending habits are driven by a desire for quality rather than bargain hunting. This is the reason for our existence. We want to provide for the gentleman who wants to enjoy a higher quality experience.

There are some who may see this as being posh or pretentious, but is it any more posh or pretentious than choosing Nike over Aldi's own brand of trainers? Or choosing an all inclusive holiday abroad rather than a caravan in Cleethorpes? Not that there's anything wrong with Aldi, caravans or Cleethorpes, by the way. We aim to cater for people who think/know that they deserve better or simply want a bit 'more' and we hope you feel that we have got it right.

Who doesn't like the idea of having a bit of extra time and care taken over their haircut? After all, you wear it every day and it is one of the first things people notice about you. As for our other services, most guys either shave or have a beard. It may seem a bit self indulgent to have someone else shave you or trim your beard but nobody questions the women who have someone else do their nails or their make up, do they? If you can afford to 'treat' yourself and you have the spare money to do so, why not? We put a lot of effort into into making you feel relaxed and smarter and if you find that you actually enjoy it then we have done our job.

If you don't enjoy it, please let us know why and we will make every effort to ensure that you leave at least satisfied. If you do enjoy it, our greatest reward is the good old word of mouth referral. Please feel free to comment if you think there is anything we do particularly well or if you think there is anything which could be improved, after all we never claimed to be perfect and we are always trying to improve.

It has been a while since our last 'blog'. A year in fact! We must admit, we are not an avid bloggers, but we thought we would use this as a means to update everyone on our progress over the last year.

Overall, we are doing about 60% better than the same time last year. Obviously, we could not achieve this without the fantastic reviews and recommendations/referrals we have received, so thank you so much to all who continue to come and help us to expand.

October last year saw the sad loss of part timer Emma to a full time job at a unisex salon in Wakefield. She was replaced sooner than was hoped by Bruce who does two days as opposed to Emma's one and has proved to be a great asset.

At the end of December last year we launched our mobile app which has been very well received. More people than ever are booking through the app as well as using the built in loyalty card. 

In July Phil completed a men's facial waxing course so that we could add this to our list of services. All staff will be able to offer this service soon. As us gents mature, we often find ourselves plagued with ear hair and nose hair. Trimming these hairs only removes them at skin level. Waxing them removes them by the root and they need to regenerate and grow through the epidermis before we see them again, leaving the waxed areas hair free for 4-6 weeks. It would be an exaggeration to say it is painful but there is a small moment of discomfort which passes in a second or two. This is an excellent add on service which we would encourage everyone who has these hairs to try at least once. It is not just for ear/nose hair either, mono-brows, hairy cheekbones and above the eyebrows can be done too.

In September, we recruited our first apprentice, Niamh. Time will tell if Niamh will go on to become a barber, it is so hard to tell with 17 year olds. However, in the meantime we will give her all the help and encouragement she needs to succeed. She is currently our Head Hair Washer and Receptionist and is gradually being introduced to more aspects of the job. This time next year she'll be cutting and styling like a pro!!

We are currently working with Carl Hinder of Salon Help in south Wales. Not because we are struggling (far from it) but in an attempt to help propel us to the next level more quickly and improve what we do. You wouldn't want us to rest on our laurels, would you? Some noticeable changes you will see over the next few weeks are the introduction of our apprentice, Niamh, the fitting of cabinets, a slight re-organisation of the shop interior and a lick of paint, followed by a revised list of services. All scissor cuts will include a shampoo at the back wash either before or after the cut and some prices will change. You can see the revised list on our About page.

​That's all for now. Thanks for reading and thanks once again for your custom.

Beards are more than just a fashion statement. Ripped jeans are a fashion statement. You can buy ripped jeans and wear them whenever it takes your fancy. You like them but you don’t take great pride in them. A man who grows and nurtures a beard may initially do it because it has become popular but, mark my word, a true ‘beardie’ will own, love and nurture that beard long after it has become fashionable to do so.  So, let’s take a look at the reasons for growing a beard and the implications of keeping and maintaining one.

Many people grow a beard initially for a number of reasons. These include:

• Fashion
• Some men hate shaving
• Some men find they are too busy to spend time shaving properly every day
• Laziness
• Skin irritation/shaving rash
• Protection against the cold

Whatever the reason, once the decision has been made other conscious decisions have to be made. How long will I grow it? CAN I grow it? Will I be allowed to grow it (by partner, employer etc)? What style should I adopt? Etc, etc.

Short beards are easier to maintain and many find that their partners ae more accepting of a short beard which is well maintained. Typically I find myself maintaining sort beards which range from a goatee which is clippered so short that it resembles a shadow to a full beard clippered to number 3 (9mm). A well maintained beard is often considered smart and business like, although stubble may often be considered scruffy. However, stubble with sharply shaved edges at the sideburns, cheeks and throat may equally be considered rugged but smart. They can be maintained with relative ease at home but beware that mistakes will be easy to spot and difficult to rectify – you may have to start again!

Mid-length beards can either appear distinguished (especially grey beards) if they are well maintained or they can have the opposite effect and make the wearer appear tramp-like if unkempt. It is at this length that growth patterns begin to become obvious. Some beards kink to one side, look fuller on one cheek than the other or simply grow in different directions. General grooming and use of beard oil may help to maintain a smarter, sharper look but beware, hair does not grow symmetrically and it may be a case of simply making the most of what you have.

Long beards are the objects of desire for many beard wearers, wannabes and many women too. It is at this stage that it becomes most difficult to maintain without help. They become coarse, grow ‘tufty’ at the corners of the jaw, bushy at the sides, divide in the middle and it is almost impossible to see underneath. Regular maintenance, although difficult, is essential and can be aided with the use of beard oil or, in the case of wispy beards, beard pomade.

A good beard oil/pomade will not only condition and feed your beard hair, giving it a healthy looking sheen, it will also stop the skin underneath the beard becoming dry and flaky.

So, why visit a barber if it can be done at home? A barber (ideally one trained in beard trimming) will be able to provide the following benefits:

• The ability to see your beard as others see it from various angles as opposed to a reflection in a mirror. The ability to see the best lines and growth patterns unhindered cannot be understated. We have all had difficulty observing our faces from all angles in the mirror, whether shaving or beard trimming, haven’t we?
• Unrestricted use of two hands and numerous professional tools.
• Being able to use the experience of dealing with numerous beards and growth patterns to be able to advise you on what will most likely suit/work best for you.
• Most people don’t own a straight razor. These create the sharpest lines compared to a razor with a disposable cartridge style head as there is no plastic casing obscuring the view of the working edge of the blade.
• Professional grade hair clippers are far more powerful, sturdy and reliable than those your Aunt Doris is likely to buy you from BHS for Christmas.

Remember, people are as likely (if not more likely) to notice the quality of your beard trimming as they are the quality of your haircut. It is certainly more noticeable when conversing with someone face to face.

What is it about 'wet' shaving and hot towel shaving?  Do you even know the difference?

Wet shaving is, as most of us know it, shaving at home with some form of razor and gel/foam/soap and water.  Many people prefer wet shaving over dry shaving (with an electric or battery shaver) because it tends to give a closer, smoother finish.  This is certainly true in my experience although no doubt some will claim that dry shaving can be just as good.  Maybe it's just down to personal preference but wet shaving certainly works better for me.  I am 100% confident that I get a closer, longer lasting finish with a blade.

Within the wet shaving community there are a few preferences as to which blade is best.  I am sure most men have spent more than a fair proportion of their time investigating the different cartridges available and feel exasperated every time a newer, 'better' and invariably more expensive one comes out.

I have in the past had a few hot towel shaves with a straight razor (of which, more later) and developed and strange interest in shaving matched only by my obsession in comparing which beer is best value in the supermarket aisles.  Oooh....that one works out at 3p per litre less than that one!  Anyway, I always quite fancied getting all the traditional shaving paraphernalia but never quite got round to it.  That is until I qualified as a barber.  I suddenly had an excuse to indulge and indulge I did.

My first step was to get a DE (double edged) razor.  You know, the sort your granddad would have used before cartridges came out.  After comparing many, a very unsubtle hint led to my wife getting me a Merkur 32HD razor.  A beautiful piece of equipment which whispers elegance far more subtly than Gillette's latest re-invention which must be designed with boy racers in mind.

After reading blogs by other shaving aficianados, I opted for Feather Hi-Stainless blades.  With 10 blades costing between £4 - £5, some basic arithmetic should soon help you to realise that after the outlay on decent equipment, this is actually going to work out to be a very cheap way to shave.  I addition, I bought a pure badger hair brush, beautifully soft and absorbent, and some good quality shaving cream and post shave moisturiser by the Bluebeard's Revenge, winners of FHM grooming awards 2013.  I was almost in shave heaven.  I can now shave extremely close (closer than a cartridge) for a fraction of what it used to cost me. My shave also lasts a day or so longer too before the 'shadow' appears.

I said this was almost shaving heaven because, in my mind, shaving heaven is having someone else do all the work for you.  Good quality wet shaving at home takes patience and time.  You need to run your fingers across your face, cross checking for any parts that aren't as smooth as the rest.  You have to pull your skin taught at strange angles to get the best cut.  Shaving heaven is what I do to other people.  I do all the hard work while they just lay there and relax.

To start with I cleanse and exfoliate the skin, using good quality products, warm water and sponges.  This also starts to prepare the beard.  I then apply oil to the beard while the towels are warming up, massaging it into the facial hair.  The towels are then applied, usually 2 or 3 in rotation, to really open the pores and soften the hair.  Next is the shaving cream applied generously to the facial hair with a pure badger hair brush and some hot water.  Now for the James Bond moment, blade meet face, face meet blade.  I navigate the contours of the face nice and lightly, taking as much hair as the blade will allow.  Then comes the second pass - pretty much a repeat of the first - hot towels, shaving cream and start again, predominantly in the opposite direction.  I tend to run my fingers over the client's face to feel where the stubble is still rough.  I also try to avoid any areas which have become irritated (or possibly even bled a tad).

Once I am satisfied the shave is complete, I apply a cold towel to the face to close the pores, prevent infection and sooth any irritation.  This is far less aggressive than aftershave and doesn't sting at all.  It usually puts an abrupt ending to any bleeding too, although a dab of alum may be required.  Next I apply alcohol free toner to tighten the skin further followed of course by moisturiser.  This makes the skin look very healthy and leaves a middle aged man looking and feeling much younger.  When I see a de-bearded middle aged man sit up after a shave looking about ten years younger, it never ceases to amaze me.


I have 'enjoyed' being shaved in various places (geographically!) from Mexico to Iraq, experiencing a variety of techniques.  Some are certainly better than others but I hope to take the best of what I have learnt both formally and from experience and apply it in my work.  It is almost as therapeutic for me to perform the shave as it is for the client to be shaved.

I am now shaving in Stanningley, west Leeds.  My main business comes from cutting hair but I hope in time to introduce to more people the joys of a 'proper' shave both at home and at my salon.  You will go a long way to find a shave this good at this price.